Villa di Tirano

In ancient times, Villa di Tirano consisted of distinct neighbourhoods, with an urban approach to town planning typical of a roadside town, involving buildings built on both sides of the main road, with grid-like lanes coming in perpendicularly down the slope of the mountain. This allowed the residents to benefit from access to both the road and to their farming land directly. As new homes have cropped up over the years, these separate neighbourhoods have combined into one single settlement that’s now around 4 km in length, running along the foot of the Rhaetian Alps and surrounded by terraced vineyards and apple orchards.

Villa di Tirano’s history goes back on record to the Roman times, but it wasn’t until the Medieval times that its strategic position was truly recognised – it’s at the crossroads of important trade and travel routes, namely the Passo Bernina and the Passo Aprica, plus the main route down the valley. It then became the capital of the parish with political and religious power over the rest of Media Valtellina. As it was so relevant, it attracted well-to-do families from afar and the then Bishop of Como (who was the spiritual head of the parish) to build stately homes here. A stroll through Villa is fascinating to see the juxtaposition of their wealth with the courtyards and alleys of the previous age.

The Palazzo Lambertenghi featuring a stunning eighteenth-century entranceway is worth a look, as is the Church of San Lorenzo in the town square with a Romanesque 15th-century bell tower and beautiful frescoes, paintings and carved wooden artefacts including the pulpit and two confessionals. The Church of Sant’Antonio da Padova is another 18th-century gem, housing frescoes by Muttoni and a remarkably well-made organ, plus a very simple-looking facade.

There’s no shortage of family-friendly excursions that set off from here: from Ragno you can visit the ancient church of Santa Perpetua, a former xenodochium on a rocky outcrop that dominates the valley with a breath-taking view over the Santuario di Madonna di Tirano and the town of Tirano just below it. Head towards Bianzone through vineyards and crop fields on the traffic-free Via dei Terrazzamenti much of this section follows the trails used in the route of the now iconic Valtellina Wine Trail race. For a flatter alternative, you can set off – by foot or by bike (make use of the ‘Rent a Bike’ system) along the traffic-free, tarmacked Sentiero Valtellina on the valley floor that runs alongside the River Adda, with regular picnic areas along the way.

For those after more exertion and fans of mountain biking, there’s a steep, narrow road flanked by chestnut and birch trees up to Ragno; from here, you join a former military track to reach the balcony-esque Novaglia (take a moment to admire the views), then continue towards the former barracks of the Guardia di Finanza at Lughina at an elevation of 1,464 metres. 

Within the boundaries of Villa di Tirano, you’ll also find the Pian di Gembro Nature Reserve, which you can reach from the Passo di Aprica. It’s one of the oldest and most important wetland areas in the Alps, with spectacular biodiversity. Other than dragonflies – of which there are around 20 species – the nature reserve is also home to many interesting plants that thrive in this habitat, including some rare carnivorous plants.

A great spot for summer days, it features walking routes, picnic areas and an education area that runs guided visits and workshops.  Fans of skinny skiing and snowshoers enjoy coming here in winter, with dedicated routes and unbeatable views of the peaks of the Adamello mountain range and the Orobic Alps.




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